Malaysia: Malacca

Under the wise guidance of the GPS, we travelled with G and GP to Malacca in Malaysia via the Tuas crossing. Two hundred and fifty kilometres on empty roads at 110 kph was delightful compared to the nose-to-tail, can’t-find-anywhere-to-park routine of Singapore.

The Courtyard@Heeren hotel is tucked away on a side road close to the river and Chinatown with charming staff, neat rooms and mandatory boutique-style indoor waterfall. A wash and brush up later, we wandered towards the main tourist area to wet whistles at Harper’s Restaurant and Lounge. Lonely Planet’s references to linen-draped tables, excellent menu and tantalising choice of food seemed a tad off the mark as we were served by a couple of children in matching tee-shirts. The book forgot to mention the occasional waft of drains as well.

We sallied forth in search of something more suitable to find that many shops and restaurants were closed on Monday. Mrs M’s Tours can be forgiven for being a little rusty. We settled outside the Kafe Eleven Bistro, alleged purveyors of more than 60 varieties of ‘Malacca Portuguese’ food. There would have been plenty of time to discuss the purported Portuguese origins of the dishes with chef while waiting for my Curry Dable Chicken which arrived while the rest of the family were polishing plates. Hugely disappointing.