Bhutan is reputed
to be the only capital city without traffic lights. There is however, a
permanent human traffic control system in Thimphu housed in an ornate
six-sided concrete shelter on Norzim Lam. The arms of the policeman
moved with mechanical smoothness as he rotated to allow his gleaming
white gloves to face the on-coming traffic. The policeman only had to
control three roads as Wogzim Lam was blocked by a number of sleeping
dogs.
Dinner featured Bhutani Kewa Datse - a potato and cheese mixture. At least that's what I'd thought I had ordered. I had clearly misunderstood the waitress, as she brought a dish of potato and green chilli, accompanied by rice and chapattis in a tiny thermal blanket. As the whole thing lacked a bit of excitement, I asked for something spicy and was rewarded with a dish of superb mango pickle. It was so good I asked for a refill. Towards the end of the meal, a young waiter asked if I was Mexican as I was enjoying the spicy food. After explaining about the British palate, he brought a bowl of Bhutani ezay (pronounced ay-zay) – a red chilli paste which, I will admit, caused a few beads of sweat, but rescued the entire meal.
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